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石臼で練る

On the Craftsmanship

When it comes to making our signature ita-tsuki mushi kamaboko (steamed kamaboko on a wooden board), we at Yamajou Kamaboko Store are deeply committed to the quality of both the fish we use as raw material and the water involved in the processing.
To bring out the best in these two essential elements, we take great care throughout the entire production process, from start to finish, ensuring that every step contributes to making the most delicious kamaboko.

What Makes Delicious Ita-tsuki Kamaboko

To us, delicious ita-tsuki kamaboko (steamed kamaboko on a wooden board) means:

Adapting to a Changing Environment Over the Years

Founded in 1878 (Meiji 11), Yamashita Kamaboko Store celebrated its 138th anniversary in 2016.
Given this long history and dedication to craftsmanship, one might assume that we have been faithfully preserving the exact techniques passed down since Meiji 11.

However, in reality, our methods have constantly evolved.
This is because the environment around us continues to change.

Much has changed since our founding in 1878:

Nothing remains the same as it was in the Meiji era.
Yet, in our quest to make the finest ita-tsuki kamaboko, we have adapted to these changes, refining traditional techniques and developing new ones along the way.

The Process of Making Ita-tsuki Kamaboko

The process of making ita-tsuki kamaboko remains fundamentally the same as it was in the Meiji era, although what was once done entirely by hand has now been partially mechanized.

Kamaboko production process
The Kamaboko Production Process
1. The Fish Filleting Process
We determine the filleting method based on the origin, freshness, type, and fat content of the fish.
The filleting machine's belt is finely adjusted to remove the dark red flesh, ensuring only the white flesh is collected.
Key Point: We focus on extracting only the best white flesh.
2. Water Rinsing
Since the texture of the fish varies with the season, origin, type, and freshness, we assess the fat content to decide the appropriate water volume.
The amount of fat on the water’s surface is checked to determine the correct water level.
Key Point: We aim to retain the fish’s natural flavor while removing any fishy odor.
3. Dewatering Process
Just before the fish enters the dewatering machine, a few drops of brine are added to adjust moisture levels.
Dewatering is carefully controlled to maintain the right moisture, ensuring a smooth and elastic texture.
Key Point: Achieving a moist and refined fish paste.
4. Grinding Process
The timing of adding salt affects the elasticity and firmness of the paste during shaping, so we adjust the temperature of both the salt and the fish based on the post-dehydration texture.
We fine-tune the mix of salt and sugar depending on seasonal changes in the fish’s texture.
After passing through a sieve, the fish is ground using a stone mill to achieve the desired firmness.
A small batch of kamaboko is made to check its elasticity and taste.
The final quality of the ground fish paste is thoroughly inspected.
Key Point: Creating a glossy, smooth fish paste with a rich texture.
Note: Sieving is the process of removing the sinews from the fish.
5. Shaping Process
Immediately after grinding, the fish paste is still soft, so the shape of the ita-tsuki kamaboko is checked to ensure it holds properly.
The paste is left to rest until the shape stabilizes.
Once the shape and weight are confirmed, the shaping machine is started.
Key Point: Achieving a shape that rises slightly above the wooden board.
6. Steaming Process
For the first 20 minutes, the kamaboko is steamed at 30°C to 40°C to allow it to settle. Afterward, it is steamed at 80°C to 90°C until the internal temperature reaches 75°C.
The internal temperature and firmness are checked every hour.
Key Point: Gently steaming to heat the core thoroughly.
7. Cooling Process
Immediately after steaming, the surface of the ita-tsuki kamaboko is cooled with water.
Then, it is rapidly cooled to below -10°C to bring the internal temperature down to below 15°C. This process helps retain moisture within the kamaboko.
The internal temperature, weight, and quality are checked every hour.
Key Point: Ensuring a fresh and moist kamaboko.
8. Packaging Process
This is the final step before delivering our products to customers.
We conduct rigorous quality inspections and carefully package each product, ensuring that our craftsmanship and care are conveyed through the packaging.
Key Point: Delivering smiles and delight to our customers.

The Challenge of Creating the Finest Ita-tsuki Kamaboko in an Ever-Changing World

In many fields, technological advances and societal changes often lead to new methods of working.
However, when it comes to making ita-tsuki kamaboko, the process remains unchanged.
At first glance, this might seem like the most natural thing.

With advancements in technology and machinery, it would seem that some steps could be simplified or altered.
The real challenge in craftsmanship lies in consistently producing high-quality products while adapting to ever-changing materials, tools, and environments.

Customers purchase our *ita-tsuki kamaboko* expecting the same renowned texture and flavor that we’ve been known for over the years.
We strive to meet those expectations by offering *ita-tsuki kamaboko* with the same familiar texture and taste that our customers have come to love.

The reason Yamashita Kamaboko Store handles every step of the production process in-house is to ensure that we can make the necessary fine adjustments at each stage, adapting to the constant changes in materials and conditions.
If nothing changed, we could simply continue making ita-tsuki kamaboko in the same way as before.
But in reality, everything changes— the fish, the water, and the environment.

Moreover, our mission is not only to maintain the traditional taste but also to create ita-tsuki kamaboko that is even more delicious than before. This is the responsibility of those who inherit and carry on our tradition.

The Fate of an Craftman

It has been over half a century since I dedicated my life to the craft of making ita-tsuki kamaboko.
I was the first in the Odawara ita-tsuki kamaboko industry to be recognized as a Certified Monozukuri Meister by the Ministry of Health, Labour, and Welfare.
Even so, every day I ask myself, "Is this really the best I can do? Could I make it even more delicious?"
To be an craftman is, I believe, to embark on a never-ending journey of self-questioning, without ever finding a final answer.

Just as my predecessor did, I too will carry this unanswerable question with me throughout my life, passing it on to the next generation of artisans.
This, I believe, is what it means to inherit a tradition.
Within this endless questioning, we artisans strive to adapt to change, and it is through our efforts to meet these challenges that our techniques are honed and refined.

This is why we at Yamajou Kamaboko Store insist on carrying out every step of the ita-tsuki kamaboko production process in-house, paying meticulous attention to the fine details of each stage.
This is the way of life for an artisan.